Alarm |
The watch alerts you with beeps at pre-set time(s). |
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Analog - digital display: |
A watch that shows the
time by means of hour and minute hands (analog display)
as well as by numbers (a digital display). |
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Analog: |
A watch that shows the time using hour,
minute and second hands. |
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Aperture: |
Small opening. The dials of some watches (in French: montres
à guichet) have apertures in which certain indications
are given (e.g. the date, the hour, etc) |
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Applique: |
Applique or applied chapters
are numerals or symbols cut out of a sheet metal and stuck
or riveted to a dial (face). |
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Assembling: |
Process of fitting together
the components of a movement. This was formerly done entirely
by hand, but the operations have now been largely automated.
Nevertheless, the human element is still primordial, especially
for inspection and testing. |
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Assortiment: |
French term for the parts
used for making an escapement. |
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Automatic winding (or self-winding): |
This
term refers to a watch with a mechanical movement (as opposed
to a quartz or electrical movement). The watch is wound
by the motion of the wearer's arm rather than through turning
the winding crown. A rotor that turns in response to motion
winds the mainspring. If an automatic watch is not worn
for a day or two, it will wind down and need to be wound
by hand a few turns to get it started again. |
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Balance: |
Moving part, usually circular,
oscillating about its axis of rotation. The hairspring coupled
to it makes it swing to and fro, dividing time into exactly
equal parts. Each of the to-and-fro movements of the balance
("tick-tock") is called an "oscillation".
One oscillation is composed of two vibrations. |
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Barrel: |
Thin cylindrical box containing the mainspring
of a watch. The toothed rim of the barrel drives the train. |
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Battery (or Cell) reserve indicator (or end of battery indicator): |
Some battery-operated watches have a feature that indicates
when the battery is approaching the end of its life. This
is often indicated by the second hand moving in two second
intervals instead of each second. |
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Bezel: |
The ring that surrounds the watch dial (or
face). The bezel is usually made of gold, gold plate or
stainless steel. |
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Bi-directional rotating bezel: |
A bezel
that can be rotated either clockwise or counterclockwise.
These are used for mathematical calculations such as average
speed or distance (see "slide rule") or for keeping
track of elapsed time (see "elapsed time rotating bezel"). |
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Bridge: |
Complementary part fixed to the main plate
to form the frame of a watch movement. The other parts are
mounted inside the frame (part of the "ébauche"). |
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Built-in illumination: |
Lighting on a watch
dial that allows the wearer to read the time in the dark.
Check out Seiko's Lumi-brite technology. |
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Calendar: |
A feature that shows the date, and often
the day of the week. There are several types of calendar
watches. Most calendar watches show the information digitally
through an aperture on the watch face. Some chronograph
watches show the information on sub-dials on the watch face. |
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Calibre: |
Originally used to mean the size
of a watch movement, this term now denotes a type of movement
(men's calibre, automatic calibre, etc). When a calibre
number is accompanied by the manufacturer's mark, it serves
as an indication of origin. |
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Chronograph: |
A watch that includes a built in stopwatch
function - i.e., a timer that can be started and stopped
to time an event. There are many variations on the chronograph.
Some operate with a center seconds hand which keeps time
on the watch's main dial. Others use sub-dials to time elapsed
hours, minutes and seconds. Still others show elapsed time
on a digital display on the watch face. Some chronographs
can be used as a lap timer (see "flyback hand"
and "split seconds hand"). The accuracy of the
stopwatch function will commonly vary from 1/5th second
to 1/100th second depending on the chronograph. Some chronographs
will measure elapsed time up to 24 hours. Watches that include
the chronograph function are themselves called "chronographs."
When a chronograph is used in conjunction with specialized
scales on the watch face it can perform many different functions,
such as determining speed or distance (see "tachymeter"
and "telemeter") Do not confuse the term "chronograph"
with "chronometer." The latter refers to a timepiece,
which may or may not have a chronograph function, that has
met certain high standards of accuracy set by an official
watch institute in Switzerland. |
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Chronometer: |
Technically speaking, all watches
are chronometers. But for a Swiss made watch to be called
a chronometer, it must meet certain very high standards
set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (C.O.S.C.).
If you have a Swiss watch labeled as a chronometer, you
can be certain that it has a mechanical movement of the
very highest quality. |
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Countdown timer: |
A function that lets the wearer
keep track of how much of a pre-set period of time has elapsed.
Some countdown timers sound a warning signal a few seconds
before the time runs out. These are useful in events such
as yacht races, where the sailor must maneuver the boat
into position before the start of a race. |
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Crown: |
A crown is the button on the outside
of the watch case that is used to set the time and date.
In a mechanical watch the crown also winds the mainspring.
In this case it is also called a "winding crown".
A screw in (or screw down) crown is used to make a watch
more water resistant. The crown actually screws into the
case, dramatically increasing the water-tightness of the
watch. |
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Crystal: |
The transparent cover on a watch
face made of glass, synthetic sapphire or plastic. Better
watches often have a sapphire crystal which is highly resistant
to scratching or shattering. |
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Depth alarm: |
An alarm on a divers' watch that sounds
when the wearer exceeds a pre-set depth. |
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Depth sensor/depth meter: |
A device on
a divers' watch that determines the wearer's depth by measuring
water pressure. It shows the depth either by analog hands
and a scale on the watch face or through a digital display. |
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Dial: |
The watch face |
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Digital watch: |
A watch that shows the
time with digits rather than with a dial and hands (analog)
display |
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Diving watch: |
A watch that is water resistant
to 200M. Has a one way rotating bezel and a screw-on crown
and back. Has a rubber strap (not leather) or metal bracelet
and possibly, a wet-suit extension. |
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Elapsed time rotating bezel: |
A graduated
rotating bezel (see rotating bezel") used to keep track
of elapsed time. The bezel can be turned so the wearer can
align the zero on the bezel with the watch's seconds or
minutes hand. After a period of time passes, you can read
the elapsed time off the bezel. This saves you having to
perform the subtraction that would be necessary if you used
the watch's regular dial. |
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Escapement: |
Device in a mechanical movement that
controls the timing through rotation of the wheels and thus
the movement of the hands. |
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Split hands or Flyback hand: |
A seconds
hand on a chronograph that can be used to time laps or to
determine finishing times for several competitors in a race.
Start the chronograph, putting both the flyback hand and
the regular chronograph seconds hand in motion. To record
a lap time or finishing time, stop the flyback hand. After
recording the time, push a button and the hand will "fly
back" to catch up with the constantly moving elapsed-time
hand. Repeat the process to record as many lap times or
finishing times as needed. |
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Gear train: |
The system of gears which transmits
power from the mainspring to the escapement. |
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Gold plated: |
A layer of gold electroplated
to a base metal. |
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Kinetic: |
Refers to the Seiko line of Kinetic watches.
This innovative technology has a quartz movement that does
not use a battery. Movement of your wrist charges a very
efficient capacitor which powers the quartz movement. Once
the capacitor is fully charged, men's models will store
energy for 7-14 days without being worn. Ladies models store
energy for 3-7 days. Of course, if the watch is worn every
day, the capacitor is continually recharged. The watch alerts
you to a low capacitor charge when the seconds hand starts
to move in two second intervals. For more information, click
to go to Seiko's Internet Site. |
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Integrated bracelet: |
A watch bracelet that is incorporated
into the design of the case. |
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Jewels: |
Synthetic sapphires or rubies that act
as bearings for pivots in watches. The jewels reduce friction
to make the watch more accurate and longer lasting. |
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Lap timer: |
A chronograph function that lets the
wearer time segments of a race. At the end of a lap, he
stops the timer, which then returns to zero to begin timing
the next lap. |
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Liquid-crystal display (LCD): |
A digital watch display
that shows the time electronically by means of a liquid
held in a thin layer between two transparent plates. All
LCD watches have quartz movements. |
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Lugs: |
Projections on a watch case to which
the watch band or bracelet is attached |
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Main Plate: |
Base plate on which all the
other parts of a watch movement are mounted (part of the
"ébauche"). |
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Mainspring: |
The driving spring of a watch, contained
in the barrel. |
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Marine Chronometer: |
Highly accurate mechanical
or electronic timekeeper enclosed in a box (hence the term
box chronometer). Marine chronometers with mechanical movements
are mounted on gimbals so that they remain in the horizontal
position which is necessary for their precision. |
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Measurement conversion: |
A feature, usually consisting
of a graduated scale on the watch's bezel, that lets the
wearer translate one type of measurement into another-miles
into kilometers, for instance, or pounds into kilograms |
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Mechanical movement: |
A movement powered by a mainspring,
working in conjunction with a balance wheel. Most watches
today have electronically controlled quartz movements and
are powered by a battery (or cell). However, mechanical
watches are currently enjoying a resurgence in popularity. |
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Movement: |
The inner mechanism of a watch that keeps
time and moves the watch's hands, calendar, etc. Movements
are either mechanical, electrical or quartz. |
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Power reserve indicator: |
A feature that shows when
the watch will soon need a new battery or winding. A battery
(or cell) reserve indicator on a quartz watch informs the
wearer when the battery is low. Often this is indicated
by the seconds hand moving at two or three-second intervals.
Seiko's Kinetic watches are quartz watches that do not have
a battery (see Kinetic). When a Seiko Kinetic needs to be
wound, the seconds hand will also move in two second intervals. |
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Quartz movement: |
A movement powered by a quartz
crystal. Quartz crystals are very accurate. They can be
mass produced which makes them less expensive than most
mechanical movements which require a higher degree of craftsmanship. |
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Regulating Elements: |
Set of parts comprising the
regulating system (sprung balance) and the escapement (escape
wheel, lever and roller). |
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Repeater: |
Watch that strikes the hours by means
of a mechanism operated by a push-piece or bolt. There are
various types of repeaters. Quarter-repeater: sounding a
low note for the hours and a "ding-dong" for each
of the quarters; Five-minute repeater: striking the hours,
quarters and five-minute periods after the quarter; Minute-repeater:
striking the hours, quarters and minutes; Grande sonnerie
(grand strike): striking the hours and quarters automatically
and repeating when a push-piece is pressed down; Chiming
repeater: in which the quarters are struck on three or four
gongs of different pitch. |
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Rotating bezel: |
A bezel (the ring surrounding the
watch face) that can be turned. Different types of rotating
bezels perform different timekeeping and mathematical functions
(see elapsed time rotating bezel," "unidirectional
rotating bezel," "bi-directional rotating bezel"
and "slide rule.") |
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Rotor: |
The part of an automatic (or self-winding)
mechanical watch that winds the movement's mainspring. It
is a flat piece of metal, usually shaped like a semicircle,
that swivels on an axle with the motion of the wearer's
arm. |
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Sapphire crystal: |
A crystal made of synthetic sapphire,
a transparent, shatter-resistant, scratch-resistant substance. |
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Screw-lock crown: |
A crown that can be screwed into
the case to make the watch watertight. |
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Second time-zone indicator: |
An additional dial
that can be set to the time in another time zone. It lets
the wearer keep track of local time and the time in another
state or country simultaneously. |
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Shock resistance: |
As defined by U.S. government
regulation, a watch's ability to withstand an impact equal
to that of being dropped onto a wood floor from a height
of 3 feet. |
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Slide rule: |
A device, consisting of logarithmic
or other scales on the outer edge of the watch face, that
can be used to do mathematical calculations. One of the
scales is marked on a rotating bezel, which can be slid
against the stationary scale to make the calculations. Some
watches have slide rules that allow specific calculations,
such as for fuel consumption by an airplane or fuel weight. |
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Solar powered: |
A watch that uses solar energy (from
any light source) to power the quartz movement. The Citizen
>Solar-Tech< models use this technology and provide
a 180 day power reserve, so they are able to run continuously.
For more information, click here to go to Citizens Internet
Site. |
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Stepping motor: |
The part of a quartz movement that
moves the gear train, which in turn moves the watch's hands. |
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Stopwatch: |
A watch with a seconds hand that measures
intervals of time. When a stopwatch is incorporated into
a standard watch, both the stopwatch function and the timepiece
are referred to as a chronograph. |
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Sub-dial: |
A small dial on a watch face used for
any of several purposes, such as keeping track of elapsed
minutes or hours on a chronograph or indicating the date. |
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Tachymeter: |
("tack IM eh ter") A feature
found on some chronograph watches, a tachymeter (also called
a "tachometer") measures the speed at which the
wearer has traveled over a measured distance. |
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Tank watch: |
A rectangular watch designed by Louis
Cartier. The bars along the sides of the watch were inspired
by the tanks used in World War 1. |
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Telemeter: |
("tel EH meh ter"): A telemeter
determines the distance of an object from the observer by
measuring how long it takes sound to travel that distance.
Like a tachymeter (see "tachymeter"), it consists
of a stopwatch, or chronograph, and a special scale, usually
on the outermost edge of the watch face. |
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30-minute recorder (or register): |
A sub-dial on
a chronograph (see "chronograph") that can time
periods of up to 30 minutes. |
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Titanium: |
A metal that is used for some watch cases
and bracelets. Titanium is much stronger and lighter than
stainless steel. Titanium is also hypo-allergenic. |
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Tonneau watch: |
A watch shaped like a barrel, with
two convex sides. |
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12-hour (24-hour) recorder (or register): |
A sub-dial
on a chronograph (see chronograph) that can time periods
of up to 12 or 24 hours. |
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Unidirectional rotating bezel: |
An elapsed time
rotating bezel (see "elapsed time rotating bezel"),
often found on divers' watches, that moves only in a counterclockwise
direction. It is designed to prevent a diver who has unwittingly
knocked the bezel off its original position from overestimating
his remaining air supply. Because the bezel moves in only
one direction, the diver can err only on the side of safety
when timing his dive. Many divers' watches are ratcheted,
so that they lock into place for greater safety. |
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Water resistance: |
The ability to withstand splashes
of water. Terms such as "water resistant to 50 meters"
or "water resistant to 200 meters" indicate that
the watch can be worn underwater to various depths. |
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Winding stem: |
Attached to the button (crown), usually
on the right side of the watch case used to wind the mainspring. |
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World time dial: |
A dial, usually on the outer edge
of the watch face, that tells the time in up to 24 time
zones around the world. The time zones are represented by
the names of cities printed on the bezel or dial. The wearer
reads the hour in a particular time zone by looking at the
scale next to the city that the hour hand is pointing to.
The minutes are read as normal. Watches with this feature
are called "world timers." |
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